Collar



Nov. 11, 1924- 1,515,392

P. A. KELLER COLLAR Filed June 1''? 1922 llVl/E/VTOR Paul A. A eZ/er,

Patented Nov. 11, 1924.

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- PAUL A. KELLER, 0F CYNWYD, PENNSYLVANIA.

context.

Application filed June 17,

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, PAUL A; KELLER, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Cynwyd, county of Montgomery, State of ennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

Some of the objects of the present invention are to provide an improved collar of the turn-overftype; to provide a soft turn-' over collar so shaped and constructed as to conform to the neckof the wearer to give a neat, well fitting appearance; to provide a soft, turn-over collar which will retain its natural shape simulating the appearance of a starched collar; to provide a turn-over collar having a finished bounding edge on the flap or turn-over portion; to provide a collar in which the use of tape or other binding material is eliminated for finishing purposes; to provide a turn-over collar having a fold line of suitable curvature to give the required shape to the collar; to provide means for concealing. frayed or unfinished edges adjacent the meeting point of the foldline with the tabs at the collar ends; to provide means for securing a V shape to the meeting endsof the collar; to provide means whereby the buttonhole tabs are accurately alined in superposed relation; to provide an improved method of forming a turn-over collar; and to provide otherimprovements as will hereinafter appears In the accompanying drawings 1 represents the body blank of a tlirn-down collar embodying the present invention; Fig.

' 2 represents the neck band blank for thesame; Fig. 3 represents one end of the blank of Fig. 1 after the first collar forming operation 1s complete; Fig.4 represents the same end after the second forming operation; Fig. 5 represents an end portion of the partially formed collar .with the neck band reinforcement secured in place; Fig. fi'represents the second step in securing the neck band reinforcement; Fig. 7 represents the end portion with the neck band reinforcement finally secured; Fig. 8 represents an enlarged section on line 88 of Fig. 7; Fig. 9 represents a front elevation of one finished end of the collar; and Fig. 10 represents a front eletfltion of thel meeting ends of the collar in wearing position.

Referring to; the drawings, one form of the present. invention comprises a collar of the turn-oyer type formed of two pieces of 1922. Serial No. 568,935.

is cut to the required form, from a fabric' having the necessary properties to impart shape to the finished collar as well as a certain amount of stifi'ness to maintain such shape under wearing conditions.

The first step in the collar constri tion, after cutting the blank 10, is to pro ide a finished edge for the turn-over portionor flap 13, and this is accomplished in the present instance by stitching the edge 16 as indicated at 17, Fig. 3, with an overlook stitch or any other suitable stitch. Following this stitching operation, this edge 16, which; bounds three sides of the flap 13, is then folded back upon that side. of the flap 13 which forms the inner or concealed part of the flap in finished condition, to provide a relatively narrow, reinforced margin 18,

Fig. 4. When so folded, a line of stitching 19 is run throughl the" reinforcement, the stitching 17 and the body piece 10, and substantially parallel to the, fold line of the' nection it should be noted that this, neck band piece 11 has a definite predetermined shape in that its upper and lower edges 22 and 23 are curved, the former, 22, havmg a curvature such as to provide a fold line of the desired contourto produce a natural uniform-fit about the neck of the wearer, while the latter, '23, has a curvature to snugly follow and fit the shirt neck band to which the collar is attached; Also, the neck band piece 11 is provided with tabs 24 conformin to the shape and. location of the tabs 14. e lower edge 25 of the stand portion 12 of the body piece 10 is also curved to correspond to the curved edge 23 of the neck'band piece 11, so that when the two parts are superim portion 13 as posed they conform substantially along the bounding edges.

In order to give a finished lower edge to the neck band and also to bring the neck band piece 11 to its proper position to be concealed by the flap 13 in folded condition, the edges 23 and 25 are turned inwardly. and

passed between the portion 12 and the neck 3 piece 11, an inside out operation, which brings two folded edges together on the outside and leaves the cut edges on theinside and concealed. A row of stitching 26 is then run along in close proximity to the as the marginal reinforcement 18, but has its upper edge 22, still unattached to the piece 10. In this connection it should be noted (see Fig. 6) that this edge 22 at this stage of the operation. overlaps the turnover or flap portion 13 slightly, thereby extending beyond the normal fold line for the flap 13. I

This overlap is shown at A, Fig.6, where its width is indicated as from the upper edge of the tab 14 to a point beyond the rough,

unfinished end ofthe marginaLreinfQrcement 18. By the provision of this overlap.

at each end, in conjunction with two nibs 28 (one at each end), formed during the initial cutting of the neck band blank 11., a means is provided for/concealing the unsightly, unfinished end of the margin 18 and giving a neat finished appearance. This is accomplished by folding the respective nibs 28 inwardly under the overlap portion of the neck band piece 11, and following that by turning the rough edge 22 inwardly under the piece 11. In this position a double line ofstit"hing 30 is run from one end of the neck band to the other, thereby securing the folded portion of the edge 22 and the nibs 23 neatly to the body piece 10. The result is an upper well defined reinforced edge 31 which outlines and determines the fold line for the turn-over or flap 13. Tncidental to this operation it is to be noted that the fold line is so taken as to bring it slightly above the junction of the top edges of the respective tabs 14'with the body piece 10, the d stance being preferably a scant eighth of an mch, as this not only insures a complete concealment of the ends of the margin 18 but, what is of equal importance, forms a clearance which allows atrue, accurate shape Where the ends of the collar are brought together as seen in Fig. 10. This clearance aids materially in giving the collar a correct set because the tabs 14 are free to overlap without binding at the meeting neiaaea ends of the collar fold line and the buttonholes 15 can be accurately superposed without stitching, binding or'otherwise pulling the, collar out of shape.

The over-lock stitching applied to the raw edge pf the turn-over portion of the collar, in combination with the plain stitching that secures the folded edge in position, and which extends throu'ghthe over-lock stitching, prevents the pulling out of the raw edge of the collar in use. The application of the over-lockstitch to a single ply fabric alone would not prevent ulling out, but in combination with the .olded edge and plain stitch improvement, this construction forms a very efiicient binder that will withstand the hard usage of modern laundry machinery.

Having thus described my. invention, ll claimi 1. A turn-over collar comprising a body piece shaped to provide a'turn-over portion and a neck band portion, the bounding edge of said turn-over portion. being folded and stitched to form a reinforced and smooth finished margin, a neck band piece secured to one side of said neck band portion, and

nibs formed respectively at opposite ends ,1

of said neck band piece for concealing the respective ends of said margin and'forming a smooth edge in finished condition of said collar. I

2. A turn-over collar comprising a body piece shaped to provide a turn-over portion and a neck band portion provided with end tabs, a neck band piece secured to one'side of the neck band portion and formed with end tabs conforming to the size and shape of said neck band tabs, and means to elevate the fold line of the body piece .at each end slightly above the upper junction of the edges. of the end tabs and said body piece whereby a'true V notch on the meeting-ends of the collar in assembled position is formed.

3.- A turn-over collar comprising .a body piece shaped to provide a turn-over portion and a neck band portion providedwith .end tabs, a neck band piece shaped to conform to the bounding edge of said neck band portion and having its upper edge carried above the upper junction of the edges of which consists in cutting a body piece to.

provide a turn-over portionand a neck band portion, cutting a separate piece to conform to saidneck. band portion, overlook-stitching the bounding edge of said twi l-Over portion, folding said stitched edge, stitching said folded edge through the overlook-stitching, securing-said neck band piece to one side of said neck band portion, and forming a smooth edge between said body piece and said neck band pieceto cgnceal the ends of said folded and stitched e ge.

5. A turn-over collar comprising a body piece formed of a single blank cut to form a' turn-over portion and a neck band portion, over-lock stitching on the raw edge of said turn-over portion, the edge of said turn-over portion being folded back upon itself, and plain stitching securing the folded edge in position and extending through the over-lock stitching.

6. The method of forming a turn-over collar which consists in cutting a body piece to I provide a turn-over portion and a neck band portion, cutting a separate piece to con form to stitching the bounding edge of said turnover portion, folding said ,stitched edge, stitching said folded edge through the overlook stitching, securing said neck band piece to one side of said neck band portion by stitching it along ,one marginal edge, reversing the positions of said body piece and neck band piece by turning the parts inside out, and. stitching the other marginal edge of said neck band piece tosaid body piece.

Signed at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia, this 14 day of June, 1922.

PAUL AQKELLER.

said neck band portion, overlook and State of Pennsylvania, 

